Russia’s dumping grounds for Soviet sculpture

At the collapse of the USSR, all the public paraphernalia of Soviet rule – statues, mosaics, frescoes – still lay scattered across Russia and beyond. Marxism-Leninism may have been kicked out of office, but what were people supposed to do with the public propaganda artworks which, for many Soviet citizens, were an unwelcome symbol of a failed and oppressive regime?

In 1991, giddy with excitement at the overthrow of the communist regime, Muscovites started removing Soviet sculptures of leaders, workers and peasants from across the city and unceremoniously leaving them on an empty site southwest of the city centre. It became a dumping ground for Lenins, Stalins, Kalinins and Sverdlovs from across Moscow. Feelings were running high, and after 20,000 Muscovites protested in front of the KGB headquarters, the Lubyanka statue of Felix Dzerzhinsky (founder of the Soviet secret police) was dismantled and moved to the site with the rest of the sculptures.

In 1992 the new government opened a park on the site, named the Park of Fallen Monuments. The statues were hoisted to their feet, arranged throughout the park, and interspersed with a growing collection of contemporary sculpture. Now, renamed  the Muzeon Park of Arts, the park contains over 700 sculptures and is a pleasant place to spend an hour or so.

The neighbouring Krymskaya embankment has recently been pedestrianised and generally spruced up, like much of central Moscow. When I visited the embankment and park in late June, the city was sunny and brimming with World Cup fever. Children were running shrieking through a splash fountain, the adjacent Central House of Artists was hosting a Banksy exhibition, and cafégoers watched skateboarders whiz along the banks of the Moskva river. But as pleasant and un-Soviet as the scene was, it was precisely the relics of Soviet-era Moscow which I’d come to see and photograph.

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M. Baburin, ‘Triumph of Labour/Peace to the World’, 1984/87
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Detail from ‘Triumph of Labour/Peace to the World’. Agriculture is the theme here, with ears of corn and a tractor held proudly aloft.
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An extremely muscular Soviet worker
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Josef Stalin, immortalised in red granite. Note that the nose has been chiselled off! Right behind Stalin is Chubarov’s 1980s sculpture ‘Victims to the Totalitarian Regime’. In a clever piece of symmetry, the wall of faces behind barbed wire, representing all those who suffered under Stalin’s government, gaze accusingly at Stalin’s back.

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A sculpture detailing various facets of Soviet life
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Detail of female agricultural workers from the sculpture above
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Monumental bust of Lenin
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Mikhail Kalinin, one of Stalin’s henchmen

 

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Felix Dzerzhinsky, founder of the Soviet secret police, gazes out over the Muzeon Park, now ironically dwarfed by the luxury apartments behind him
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The modern walkway through the park, lined with Soviet bigwigs

A few days later in the western Russian city of Pskov, I saw something similar, albeit on a much smaller scale. Here, miscellaneous Soviet relics had been laid to rest in the courtyard of the city museum, unceremoniously perched against walls and stuffed into unobtrusive corners.

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Bust of Karl Marx
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The text reads oтечественная войн, or ‘patriotic war’, probably referring to the Great Patriotic War of 1941-45
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Group of model Soviet workers

4 thoughts on “Russia’s dumping grounds for Soviet sculpture

  1. Pingback: Russian Roundup – December 2019 – Street Russian

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